1996 Krug Clos Du Mesnil Blanc De Blancs Brut, Champagne, France

As if there were any doubts, Krug’s 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil reaffirms its position as one of the greatest – if not the greatest – Champagne of this historic harvest. I have had the privilege of drinking the 1996 Clos du Mesnil a few times over the last year and it has always been breathtaking, as it is again today. The wine sparkles on the palate with a brilliant, pointillist expression of fruit, showing surreal detail, depth and polish. Like a finely cut gem, each impression reveals a different and unique shade of nuance. The 1996 Clos du Mesnil coats every inch of the palate with endless layers of perfumed fruit and a chiseled, minerally finish that lasts forever. The oak seems a touch pronounced in this particular bottle, something I have not encountered previously with this wine. If forced to drink only one Champagne (assuming budget was not an issue) I might very well choose Krug’s 1996 Clos du Mesnil. This profound Champagne is as good as it gets. No disgorgement date provided. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2036.

My tasting this year with Olivier Krug was fascinating as I had the rare opportunity to taste all of the house’s 1996’s side by side, a comparison that yielded very interesting results.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RP